París junio 06 2011.
La noche se hizo día estamos en París la ciudad luz que duerme tarde. El estilo arquitectónico es tan diverso: Gótico, romano, renacimiento italiano, una muestra que resulta ser un lujo para los guías que se detienen a exponer detalles de construcciones; y un manjar para nosotros que disfrutamos del reflejo de la historia que vive en cada construcción a pesar de los siglos que han pasado por ellas, hoy latimos con cada cuento en pleno siglo 21.
Lo ultra moderno tiene su espacio propio en la Defense, ahí nos hospedamos, levantándonos muy temprano podíamos ver desde nuestra ventana a veintena de ejecutivos, que escogían el negro y gris como su color favorito para ir a trabajar, ellos corrían por entre altos edificios de sólo ventanales en vidrio hacia su trabajo, era una comparsa esperada cada mañana a la ocho en punto; lógico estamos descansando en el principal centro de negocios de París.
Al salir del hotel nuestras pupilas se iluminan con el arco del triunfo moderno, inaugurado en 1989 para conmemorar el bicentenario de la Revolución Francesa, pero yo quiero estar siempre en el Louvre donde la historia palpita a otro ritmo.
Saliendo de la Defense, según los taxistas esta zona ya no es París, y al llegar a Los Campos Elíseos, me pierdo en el Río humano de gente de todas las nacionalidades, asiáticos con mirada Sony o Nokia, musulmanas caminan como oscuras masas entre burkas , americanos con bronceado pecoso y en medio de la multitud nosotros: Los George Ghisays cumpliendo el sueño de ir al Líbano, disfrutando la escala en la ciudad luz, teniendo como fondo el arco del triunfo, a nuestras espaldas la tumba del soldado anónimo, disfrutando la dulce vida y asombrándonos con la exactitud del arco del triunfo en línea recta con el obelisco y por último la torre Eiffel.
“No puedo creerlo mami que estoy aquí”, así me ha dicho Samir la emoción me embargó el alma y lo confieso sentí una energía especial cuando estuve en frente de la gigante de 300 metros de metal, me recargó de vitalidad, de inmediato borré el cansancio de las once horas de vuelo de Air France, las cuatro de caminata, todo fue perfecto en el instante aquel que eleve mis ojos para ver la gran torre Eiffel.
Bonjour
Muy temprano visitamos el museo Louvre, Al ingresar por la pirámide de cristal pensé será cierto que estamos debajo del santo grial? pero aquí Dan Braun es un pobre tonto. Siglos de historia nos esperaban colgados de nuestras orejas en simples dispositivos electrónicos, que fueron nuestra guía.
La mirada de la Monna Lisa nos recorrió pero fue tan difícil fotografiarla, cientos de cabezas impedían tener el plano perfecto, la Joconde es la de mayor número de admiradores.
Ver a Samir y Amal entusiasmados con la Joconde fue mi recompensa, mi pequeño hasta conmovió en medio de la masa a la cuidadora que lo desplazó por en medio de todos y le dio la oportunidad de estar muy cerca para fotografiarla. Mis dos hijos han logrado construir un álbum de París desde sus Nintendo DS.
LOUVRE
“Mami aquí hay muchos pipis”, me dice Amal mi pequeña de ocho años con absoluto asombro miraba al Esclave de Mourant de MichelAnge, la colección Borghese, provista de esculturas italianas detalladas a l cincel en su asombrosa anatomía.
El Gladiador, de Michelangelo Buonarroti y la hermosa escultura que alguna vez fue una fuente y de la cual hoy se conservan hombres desnudos como cimiento de la Colección Albani denominada Satyres, provocaron asombro, tantos músculos y cero calzoncillos no podía ser normal para dos niños que sólo habían recorrido el Museo del Caribe en Barranquilla, donde las culturas indígenas usan taparrabo.
Las Bodas de Caná de Jacques Louis David, inmenso óleo el más grande del museo, ocupa la inmensa pared representando la multiplicación de los panes, La Liberte Guidant Le Peuple, la libertad guiando al pueblo un hermoso óleo de Eugene Delacroix es un cuadro con un gran significado político donde se representa el triunfo de la libertad a través de una sofisticada mujer que sobresale entre algunos muertos y heridos como la punta de una pirámide iza la bandera de Francia.
Al subir las escaleras esta ella, como en la proa del navío en el que alguna vez estuvo entera, como una muestra de lo grande y victorioso que fue Demetrio rey de Macedonia, quien mandó a esculpir a ella: La Victoria de Samotrhace, traída desde Grecia. Sus ropas parecen de suave lienzo que se ciñen al cuerpo de esta mujer sin brazos con enormes alas, se aprecia desde el lado izquierdo una bella óptica pues aparece como volando con la pierna izquierda deslizada hacia atrás de tal forma que da la sensación de estar en movimiento, impresionante figura de mármol, el trabajo es tan perfecto que no hay rigidez, imaginas un delicado lino que acaricia el cuerpo de la mujer.
El tiempo se agota debemos regresar, hasta las cinco podemos usar los audífonos y a esta hora se cierra el museo. Cuando entregaba el equipo y tomaba las escaleras eléctricas para salir, la nostalgia me obligó a mirar todo como queriéndolo grabar por siempre, como una última fotografía de un lugar al que quizá nunca más vuelva a ir.
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